
The soft cloud of warm breath whispered from the lips of the Scottish woman’s mouth – her song blending with the sound of the harp and violin. More voices joined the Islamic chant, their beauty echoing through the small space of Rosslyn chapel. Warmth from heat lamps cut the bitter chill coming from the rain outside. Sir William, the black resident cat, purred loudly as he rubbed his chin against my leg.
I’d come to Scotland without plans or a guidebook and my first journey found me inside the mystical church made famous by the Da Vinci Code. Some say the stone floor hides the Holy Grail. Others tell tales and create music from the symbols that decorate the ceiling of the feminine chapel. In this church there’s no separation of faiths; carvings depict the Free Masons, the Goddess, the Celts, Christianity, and the Knight’s Templar along with symbols of the Mic Mac Native Americans. As I joined the congregation for evensong on Palm Sunday we celebrated with chants and prayers from Judaism, Christianity, and Islam. As we stood to hold hands and pray for peace, I looked at the tiny chapel covered in intricate carvings, listened to the beauty of the voices, and marveled at the moment.
When the prayer service ended the congregation invited me to share food and wine. This dream come true to see Scotland had me feeling as if I belonged in the world. It’s so easy to get caught up in the definitions of our lives: this is my family and circle of friends; this is my home and country; this is my faith. As I travel, I’ve come to realize that the circles from which I live don’t have to define me. I can belong anywhere, with any group of people, as long as my mind remains open.
I began this journey of pursuing my dreams with the idea that the world was filled with friendly faces. Nowhere have I realized this more than in Scotland. From the moment I sat on the plane from London to Glasgow I was embraced in the hospitality of the Scottish people. A lovely couple spent the flight telling me each place I should visit and mapping out an itinerary. I found myself lost on a regular basis as I drove tiny winding roads through the countryside. I never feared getting lost for there was always an innkeeper willing to give me directions.
Scotland is a place of immense beauty. Each turn brings you to rolling landscapes of farmlands, mountains, lakes, and quaint towns. On one occasion I stopped at a castle assuming it was a hotel. When I asked for a room the man looked at me with confusion and then said, “But this is a nursing home.” There’s such an abundance of castles that they turn them into rest homes.
I traveled to Edinburgh, Loch Lohmond, Luss, Fort William and spent most of my stay in Oban, a tiny fishing village in the highlands. During the days I hiked in the mountains or to abandoned castles. I stood surrounded and awed by breathtaking scenery. Each night I sat with a glass of wine staring at the bay as the sun set over the boats returning from a day at sea. Most of Scotland has been left unmarked by modern times and nature has been allowed to keep it’s presence for the world to enjoy.
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